Travel notes
Two nights in Phonsovan & Plain of Jars. This area - about 300 sq. kmetres the site of heavy fighting 1960-1970; civil war between Pathet Lao, Royalists and Hmong mountain tribes led by Vang Pao, financed by CIA. N. Vietnamese, Russians and CIA intervened; Ho Chi Minh trail ran through here and tracks and trenches still evident. US bombed the trail but also used site as a dumping ground for bombers offloading before they landed. The result, we were told was the equivalent of 10 Hiroshimas in bomb tonnage a day for about eight years.
war evidence everywhere, bomb craters, scrapyards full of military weaponry, bags of bullets many still with gunpowder, grenades, cluster bombs and landmines. Defoliants, agent orange etc stripped the hills bare of trees. Crops growing again. People turning war artillery to practical use. Our hotel, the auberge has a stripped down bomb casing as an ashtray; wooden thatched homes use the shells to prop up fences and buildings and melt down aluminium for spoons. the Mine Action Group working daily and we saw the UXO guys out clearing round a house.
Amazingly, the numbers of people injured by still live war ammo/bombs is increasing - one estimate about 300 a year. People get money for war scrap and so are willing to search it out and dig it up.
Laos - US secret war. Involvement there only just admitted. While we were there, US military had taken over the Vansana Hotel. They had deputation dealing with Missing In Action soldiers - apparently 4-5,000 MIAs in Laos.
Plain of Jars the Plain of Jars runs through the war site. Jars fascinating up close - if not in pix. 2000-4000 years old. several theories about what they are four, although our guide claims most likely used for offerings to the gods/spirits to protect the departed.
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4 comments:
Good to hear from you and see you. Was somewhat concerned that "Mag(s)" was clearing mines until I realised that MAG was something else! Keep up the good work - miss you
Marion & Steph
Thanks for the comment. Still trying to work out best blog lay-out. More pics and shorter pieces I think. Awkward though since connection often very slow. May have to wait till Bkok for that! Hope all well
Even if shy to comment I do check regularly for my quota of aumsement so don't leave us in the dark! Where are you? Any pubs near by for the start of the season?
By the way, who are the scary men with the masks? Are those in the speed boat (from hell)?
Hi Ana!
Good to hear from you. Yes, the scary masks are the speedboat from hell. Currently contemplating a speed boat Siem Reap-Phnom Penh or maybe from here to Vietnam.
Love M&J
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